British Columbia Part 5: The Last Leg of the Journey

Scooting down to Gorge Harbour on Cortes Island's western shore proved to be a delightful opportunity for a gentle return to civilization and some rest and relaxation in a still-natural but less wild setting. We spent a few nights in completely protected waters and drank in the sweet, welcoming, and chill vibe at Gorge Harbour Marina Resort--a lovely little haven with campsites and various accommodations, a small but well-stocked natural grocery store, and even a tiny farmer's market. The kiddos enjoyed climbing apple trees and making friends on the playground and we splurged for a day-pass to the chilly but picturesque pool overlooking the harbour (the cost was a whopping $5 per person).

Our next stop was the Copeland Islands, a tiny archipelago southeast of Cortes Island and just off the coast of the mainland. Though the sail over was only a few hours long, it was one of the roughest we'd encountered and took us by surprise. After a season of mostly smooth crossings, we found ourselves somewhat unprepared for what turned out to be a tumultuous and sickening (for some of us) experience. A chilly night punctuated by violent thunderstorms provided further food for thought and, though the morning dawned crisp and clear, Nico and I agreed that perhaps it was time to begin the journey southward...but not before savouring a few last days in the serenity of the region's backcountry beauty:

We made the most of our anchorage off the Copeland Islands. The kids lured schools of tiny fish with baited hooks and we hiked the ridgeline multiple times in the golden glow of a landscape that suddenly felt autumnal, though still incredibly inviting. We breathed in the fresh, brisk breeze, not wanting to leave but also knowing in our hearts that it was time.

The journey southward seemed to go by in a flash. We strategically traveled half-days, allowing time for remote work, homeschooling, and the stretching of legs each afternoon. Most of our anchorages were spots we'd already stopped at earlier in our travels and, before we knew it, the sun was setting on the wilderness portion of our adventure and we were back in Victoria.

Victoria & Vancouver

Our second stay in Victoria was as rich and enjoyable as our first. My cousins generously loaned us their car for a second time and we spent several days juggling work, parenting, and errands as we provisioned and repaired Mohini once again (notably, a ripped sail required a specialty fix). I visited Victoria's teacher supply store to augment my onboard teaching materials and we were fortunate to connect with family several times as well as close friends. One of my best friends from high school had recently been posted to Esquimalt's navy base and arrived in Victoria at the same time as us, setting the stage for several joyful evenings together. We even hosted one of Nico's remote bookkeeping clients for supper on board Mohini!

Our original plan had been to sail up to Vancouver before leaving the Georgia Strait but, as we calculated the extra week or so that voyage would add to our itinerary, we opted instead for a day-trip to see some old friends and take the kids to the Vancouver Aquarium in Stanley Park. Catching the early ferry over and the late ferry back made for a long but wonderful day, and some warm memories that will last a lifetime. The kids were totally captivated by the sea life exhibits and we even got to celebrate a milestone birthday with our friend!

Pictures by Adele Lewin:

Victoria was cold. So cold that we couldn't seem to warm up and invested in a propane heater for the boat. That, however, caused its own problems and condensation became a way of life for us (not a sentence I ever aspired to say). Though we were having fun, we were quickly realizing that our uninsulated boat wasn't built for cool climates and were starting to feel quite mouldy (seriously)--not to mention, the early mornings and late nights were brutally uncomfortable. We knew there was a long journey ahead to warmer weather and we were ready to get a move on. On September 16, we once again sailed out of Cadboro Bay, but this time turned our bow southward, and then west, towards our family's first taste together of the open sea!

To follow Mohini's journey out of the Georgia Strait and down the Washington state coast, read our post, Washington State: Port Angeles to the Columbia River.