British Columbia Part 1: Victoria - Salt Spring - Thetis Island

When we woke up on our first morning in British Columbia, we poked our heads out of the cockpit to discover that we were centrally located in downtown Victoria. The legislative building, Empress Hotel, and Fisherman's Wharf were a stone's throw away and we were adjacent to the city's main floatplane runway. Energized to be reunited and back on Mohini, we quickly unpacked some essentials, cleaned up a little (yes, the boat needed some serious scrubbing and TLC after two months at sea with four different guys on board), and headed out to stretch our legs and explore.

Morning view from Wharf Marina

It was Nico's and the kids' first visit to Victoria and we had a wonderful time walking through the hustle and bustle of the city centre and visiting my cousin's coffee shop, Hey Happy, on Johnson Street. Having our home on our backs meant that, though we needed to stock up on certain essentials, we had access to our own kitchen utensils, linens, books, toys, toiletries, and other household items all relocated from Mexico at our fingertips. At the end of the day when we were ready to be done sightseeing, we could simply relax and prepare a home-cooked meal while the kids played in their own bedrooms. That was a delightful, secure, and cozy feeling and the ability to truly come home, no matter where Mohini may be located, continues to be one of our very favourite aspects of boat life.

After two nights in the marina, we moved Mohini to an anchorage in Cadboro-Gyro Park near the University of Victoria, where we stayed for a little over a week as we provisioned, cleaned, worked on maintenance and repair tasks for the catamaran and dinghy, and adjusted to the realities of life on anchor. Gone was the luxury of casually stepping off of the boat onto a solid dock, and in its place the constant roll of the ocean (albeit very gentle), 360-degree open views, and the peace and quiet of being our own floating entity. The wind blowing down from snow-capped peaks and directly across the strait made for some chilly evenings (a new experience for us on Mohini) and we were grateful for the forethought we'd had in purchasing thick fleece blankets for all the beds. Overall, we were happy as clams.

Cadboro-Gyro Park has a wonderful playground and is within easy walking distance of amenities such as a grocery store and bus stops. While one of us worked, the other could be enjoying the park and nearby walking trails or running errands with the kids. We were also fortunate to be able to "host" some friends at the picnic area near our anchorage and visit Beacon Hill Park with my cousin and her family, who generously loaned us their second car for a few days so that we could complete some major provisioning runs. One special evening found us surrounded by extended family while the kids built forts and connected with new cousins.

Despite thoroughly enjoying our time in Victoria, Nico and I were both itching to leave this urban anchorage behind and head out into the islands and wilderness we were so eager to explore. On July 19, a clear, chilly day with a perfect amount of wind for sailing, we finally entered the Georgia Strait and oriented our bow north. Mount Baker came radiantly into view, seals poked their curious heads up on both sides of Mohini as she cut across the water, and we felt certain we were where we were meant to be.

Salt Spring Island

Our first stop was Salt Spring Island--one of the largest, most populated, and accessible of the Gulf Islands. We anchored in Long Harbour near the community of Ganges on the island's northwest side and breathed in the first of many memorable sunsets as the kids slept peacefully in their cabins:

When we went ashore the next day, we were delighted to arrive in the midst of the Salt Spring Saturday Market, a vibrant artisanal market offering everything from fresh produce to stunning jewelry and crafts. Aaron and Yael climbed on the shady playground, enjoying handmade yogurt popsicles, while Nico purchased some local unpasteurized blackberry honey for his morning tea. We also strolled through town, stopping in the bookstore to pick up an awesome book called The Science and Superpowers of Seaweed: A Guide for Kids, which turned out to be an invaluable resource and provide hours of engagement for all of us. We'd highly recommend it for other boating families or those who live near the ocean!

The next morning, we packed our daypack and embarked on our first serious hike of the trip up Mt. Erskine in Mt. Erskine Provincial Park. It was a stunning trail with a rewarding panorama at the peak and the kids rose to the occasion every step of the way. Hiking is truly a joy that our entire family shares and we are never happier or more grounded and fulfilled than we're on the trail together.

Thetis Island

Our next stop was Thetis Island, where we anchored for just one night but had a lovely experience exploring the gorgeous shoreline together. We also discovered Telegraph Harbour Marina--a quaint and peaceful harbour accessible via the island's notorious Canoe Pass, which is impassable at low tide (yes, we got our dinghy stuck). There we were welcomed with gifts of fresh plums from the children of the family who owns the property and returned to Mohini afterwards feeling the warm glow of unexpected friendship in a tranquil setting.

Continue following Mohini's journey in the Strait of Georgia with our post: British Columbia Part 2!